Skincare

The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. It plays a protective role to the outside world. It is in constant turnover, new cells being produced at the bottom and the oldest ones shedding from the surface. Make-up, oils, environmental pollutants all deposit to its surface. Adequate cleansing will assist in removing those thoroughly, assist the exfoliation process whilst preserving the natural chemistry, PH and not stripping away the natural lipid mantle which prevents the loss of hydration from within.

Various serums can be applied to address the specific “problem” your skin is experiencing, literally changing the way your skin behaves. Acne, ageing, pigmentation, redness, flakiness, sensitivity, all have their corresponding researched active ingredients which assist in regularising their detrimental impact on the skin’s appearance.

Hydration relates to the water content of the epidermis. It is often confused with lubrication. The amount of lubrication (oils, lipids) one’s moisturiser requires varies according to their existing skin’s oiliness. Whilst balancing and correcting the skin’s lipid mantle is important, using too rich a moisturiser on an acne-prone or oily Mediterranean skin can only contribute to congestion and enlarged pores. The best moisturisers will best mimic the inherent complex balanced composition and PH of the epidermis to restore its barrier function. There is no such thing as an "oil-free" moisturiser. There are various degrees of richness in texture and comedogenicity (pore clogging) regardless of apparent texture of the product.

Environmental protection from oxidative stress, pollution and mainly UV radiation is considered by many to be the most crucial step in averting skin ageing. In recent years, many very potent antioxidants have entered the skincare market such as Idebenone, Resveratrol, Superoxide Dismutase (SOD), they often come with exaggerated claims and high price compared to their common, cheaper, trialled and tested Vitamins A, C, E. Using antioxidants in combination has a synergistic effect compared to using a single one.

Sunscreen ingredients are more difficult to navigate. It has been of general consensus for some years that mineral physical blockers (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) were superior to chemical sunscreens and often causing lesser irritation and maintaining their barrier function throughout the day. The verdict is out on this one in recent times as there are accrued concerns regarding the carcinogenicity of titanium dioxide, especially when micronized in nano sized particles which can penetrate more effectively and accumulate in the dermis as well as reach the blood stream. Mineral make up also procures a good level of sun barrier proportional to the coverage of application.